When it was announced in January, Almacén El Gallo instantly became one of the buzziest new openings of the year. Burciaga Hospitality Group’s first offering to Fort Worth foodies is spot on. It officially opens today, Monday, July 27, for dinner service only, with lunch and breakfast to follow in the coming weeks. Here’s a sneak peek of the newly opened Almacén El Gallo.
Restaurateurs Adrian Burciaga and Martin Quirarte’s new Burciaga Hospitality Group burst on the scene with the promise of more authentic Mexican cuisine. They began by updating the menu at Tinie’s on the Southside. Then, they took over the space beside 61 Osteria, the former Neighbor’s House Grocery. it’s located in the building downtown known as First on 7th at 500 West 7th Street.
A partnership with a Michelin-ranked chef brought a bit of magic to Fort Worth and shook up the local restaurant landscape with the promise of Mex-Mex cuisine. Mexican chef Rodrigo Rivera Río is the co-founder of KOLI Cocina de Origen in Monterrey, Mexico. It’s a Michelin one-star with a lot of buzz for its regional tasting menus.
Foodies got their first taste at the Fort Worth Food & Wine Festival held last April. Lines formed quickly to sample the wares and meet Chef Río. Now they can make reservations at Almacén El Gallo on Resy.
Michelin Magic by Chef Rodrigo Rivera Río
Rio has carefully crafted a menu for Almacén El Gallo showcasing the very best of Mexico through grilled meats, barbacoa, moles, adobos, stews, and broths.
Unlike his KOLI, this is not regionally focused. Instead it spans the entire country’s far-flung cuisine. The menu ranges from the steaks and duck carnitas of Mexico’s pastureland to the Nayarit-style grilled shrimp and ceviches of its coastal climates
Río was running the kitchen and training the staff during a soft-opening service last weekend, just ahead of Monday’s opening.
The menu is enticing with so many entries you’ll want to try. I’ll be back soon for a taste of the pink mole of roasted beets and the roasted bone marrow with onion glaze. Not to mention the tostada de atun, the labor-intensive Oaxacan-style mole negro, and of course that sweet corn flan. But, on our first preview visit, there were a few stand-outs to suggest.
On the Menu at Almacén El Gallo
The tropical ceviche is made with the catch of the day. Last weekend it was a velvety striped bass swimming in lime-infused coconut broth with just a bit of heat from jalapeño and guajillo oil, served with fresh tostada chips. This a generous portion for sharing with the table.
In fact, many items can be shared, making for a fun meal with friends.
Two varieties of chef-inspired tacos were elevated as well. First, the Cochinita Pibil de Yucatán, or pork marinated in achiote, was simply stunning. Then, the Jaiba al Pastor ― a whole soft shell crab al pastor is lightly fried and served layered atop a fresh tortilla, slathered in mayo, and a crispy bite of romaine.
The Short Rib en Chile Mixe was falling off the bone. It’s slow-cooked and topped with a very special sauce made from a rare variety of Oaxacan smoke-dried peppers. They are sourced from the mountainous Sierra Norte region by the indigenous Mixe people. A few roasted potatoes and a handful of fresh tortillas make for a singular meal.
For dessert, the showstopper has to be the Pavlova. It shows up as a ball of meringue dusted with dried raspberry dust, and resting atop a pillow of pastry cream. Your server will pop it once with the back of a spoon, cracking the meringue open to reveal a coulis of sherried strawberries. It’s a lovely ending, leaving a lasting impression.
Step Inside Downtown’s Newest Opening
The modern dining room is relaxing and contemporary. Bar Gallo greets you as you enter with a row of comfy bar stools to your right. The front dining room has a row of tequila lockers installed for those who prefer to sip from their own stash.
The back dining room has a jumbo screen playing vintage Mexican movies in black and white. And there is a colorful painting installed against the back wall, which was created by Burciaga’s son.
Warm woods range from the light-toned tabletops, which are surrounded by modern sage-green upholstered three-legged chairs. There are warmer woods in the rows of decorated bookshelves dividing the floor-to-ceiling windows, draped with sheers which still allow light to flow through.
The semi-open kitchen allows peeks into the process. Panels of ribbed glass enclose the rest of the space, and shimmer in the evening light. Dangling rust-toned lighting, vibrant black-and-white tiled flooring, and Mexican pottery add to the ambience.
The Vibe Includes Stellar Service
The backstory of this new restaurant is of childhood memories for its co-founders Adrian Burciaga and Martin Quirarte.
“Mexico’s neighborhood fondas and old cantinas were places where neighbors gathered daily not only to eat, but to connect, celebrate, and share life,” they say. The family-run fonda would feature a special dish of the day, while the cantinas offered an array of options from small plates and shareables to full entrees.
While chef Rodrigo Rivera Río has trained the kitchen staff in his techniques and recipes, the front-of-house is in equally capable hands. If you are looking for friendly, attentive, and knowledgeable service, this is where you can find it, thanks to training by co-owner Adrian Burciaga, who has mastered the craft.
Burciaga tells Fort Worth Digital Diary that this week will be the beginning of dinner service only. The following week, they’ll roll out a limited menu of quick lunches to satisfy the surrounding office workers (including a burger and enchilada plates). Lunch orders can be placed online and picked up for convenience. Plus, breakfast tacos, coffees, and such will add a third meal to the daily routine at Almacén El Gallo soon.