Polanco opened recently in downtown Fort Worth, on multiple floors at The Tower. It’s located at 570 Throckmorton Street. The upscale Mexican experience is named for a famous Mexico City suburb, known to be a ritzy, park-like enclave. From the authentic menu to the intentional focus on service, Polanco brings a modern Mexican twist to town. Here’s a first taste of the new restaurant.
The fine Mexican concept is a family-owned affair. Fort Worth Digital Diary was one of the first to share news of this new finer dining entry. The Novoa family originally hails from Mexico City. Allen Novoa says that while he has been in Fort Worth his entire life, he still has family there and visits often. That’s why the cuisine and culture at Polanco are on point.
Fine Mexican dining is, of course, right on trend. Polanco joins James Beard semi-finalist Don Artemio, and its upcoming Dos Mares (promising coastal Mexican soon). Toro Toro by international super-chef Richard Sandoval has proven its enduring pan-Latin appeal. Plus, the forthcoming Beverly’s Mexican will also open nearby in the Hogan Building, by the same team that recently opened The Mont. More elevated Mexican, please.
The lively cocktail program was impressive on my first visit. My favorites were the juicy and well-balanced La Roma with Lalo tequila, fresh blood orange, raw agave, and Grand Marnier, and the Sierra Y Sol. It qualifies at Polanco’s “house skinny” made from 818 reposado, fresh lime, grapefruit, and Pellegrino soda ― perfectly juicy and salty.
Two other drinks held a dramatic flair with dry ice billowing. The Polanco margarita is a watermelon and jalapeño creation. The glass is presented by a cigar-smoking bulldog. The Monumental, likewise, is served in a toro (bull) shaped cup. It was a simple (two-ingredient) drink made with Aguasol Blanco and Giffard coconut liquor, making it a coconut-forward, but not too sweet, concoction and definitely not a Pina Colada. Coconut and tequila … who knew?
Table water is your choice of still or sparkling bottled water (Aqua Panna, San Pellegrino, and the like) served with a tray of condiments from lemon and lime to mint or cucumber slices. And, the table is served a nibble of housemade soda bread served with a delish chili sauce for dipping.
We started with a hot and a cold appetizer. The Hot Shareables section holds a traditional Chicharron Ribeye. Fresh creamy guacamole is studded with tender, flash-fried ribeye nuggets. It is served tableside with fresh corn tortillas for wrapping.
The Cold selections lean to fresh seafood, and include a classic sea bass ceviche. But we chose the Tuna Sandia. It is presented at the table as a compressed tower, then carefully deconstructed and portioned for you. The citrus-marinated tuna was heavenly, served alongside fresh watermelon (sandia), fried onion strings, and cucumber.
You’ll see “Petroleum Sauce” listed on several items. The soy sauce-like condiment is flavored with Maggi and citrus, among other things.
We sampled a bit of surf and turf on our first visit to Polanco.
The Salmon Intercontinental is cooked simply, pan-seared, not overly seasoned, and topped with arugula. It is served atop black (from squid ink) couscous. The Filete Castelar is a tender sliced filet atop mashed potatoes, and sided by a unique citrusy steak sauce, which elevated the dish.
Desserts are shareable as well (large portions). The Pan De Elote is a dense corn cheesecake, drizzled in caramel, dusted with sliced almonds, and plated with seasonal berries. My favorite was the Chocolate Tibio ― a dark chocolate cake served warm and gooey with just a hint of burned Guajillo pepper, topped with a scoop of homemade vanilla.
When the Fort Worth National Bank Tower opened in 1974, its rocket-ship shape and 35 stories made it the tallest building in town. One massive tornado in 2000, and 51 years later, it remains the fourth-tallest building in downtown Fort Worth. This new Mex-Mex restaurant makes the best use of the concrete structure at the base of The Tower.
Heavy slanted structures now serve as privacy walls for cozy two-tops at Polanco. The entry level greets you with a stairwell to the main dining room on the second floor. The volume of the space is capped by modern round chandeliers, and walls of windows taking in the tree-lined, sunset views of downtown.
For pre-dinner and after-dinner drinks, the first-floor Polanco Bar is filled with live music and many seating options. The basement level is still being constructed. Novoa says the Copa Speakeasy should open there within a month or two, adding another nightlife option to downtown.
Polanco joins Reata (which made its return to The Tower in July of 2024), Potbelly, Oaxacan taco joint Salsa Limon, and the new focaccia concept called Bella Gente at The Tower.
